050924 Intake

Overview - First day out with all for the birthday weekend and it's a cool, sunny day. Perfect. Gary Gibson, who put up most of the routes there, was wandering around offering advice and trying new lines, and Ian and I ended up doing short and sharps whilst Alun tackled the longer walls.

Silencio (1* 6a+)

Led - Damian and I started out up this one as a warm-up, and the crux sequence, near the top, is worthwhile and felt better than any of the lower moves. English 5b at the crux on flowstone-like rock; seems right at the grade.

El Sergio (2* 6a)

Led - Fairly standard, easy lower section, then a small roof, then an upper chimney. After the technical crux at the roof, the upper chimney is good fun with a very nice view, and makes it well worth the climb to it.

Headline News (1* 6c+)

Led - This climb is four bolts (three of which really matter), and about four / five sustained moves (probably all english 5c/6a). I probably broke the record for amount of time taken per bolt, as I spent about 10 minutes finding each move!